Franco’s death in 1975 ushered in democracy in Spain, but resentment over 35 years of dictatorship still lingers in Basque memory. Since the late 60s, a terrorist movement led by Euskadi ta Askatasuna (ETA; “Basque country and freedom”) demanded that the four Basque provinces on the Spanish side-Gipuzcoa, Navarra, Alava, and Vizcaya-receive complete political independence. Violence has erupted on both sides, resulting in the deaths of numerous public officials and occasionally brutal backlash by the civil guard. Nevertheless, the Spanish have granted the Basques more autonomy over the years, and a cease-fire was declared in 1998. Talks have since stalled and ETA announced in October 1999 that it would take up arms again. However, even in the days prior to the cease-fire, ETA generally chose state-related targets. Tourists rarely feel threatened and demonstrations usually end peacefully. [Note: as of January 21st the truce has come to a de facto end with the explosion of two car bombs in Madrid]
Despite all of this, exuberant nationalism has had its plusses. Basque language, music, and dance have flourished in the last two decades. Parents give their children formerly forbidden names like I?aki, Idoya, and Estibaliz. Sporadic violence has not disrupted the economic vitality of the region, one of the most industrialized and prosperous in Spain. Visitors to the Basque Country (an area no bigger than the U.S. state of New Hampshire) enjoy its resplendent green mountains and pretty beaches, besides joining the locals in a near spiritual appreciation of food and drink. These qualities overflow during the bacchanalian festival of San Ferm?n, known by everybody else as the Running of the Bulls. As a contrast to this traditional agricultural setting stand Basque cities with their finger on the millennial pulse, for example San Sebasti?n, and especially Bilbao with its futuristic Guggenheim art museum.
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